Nelson-based nutritionist Julie North got her hands on the only Harricado in the country and put it to the smash – comparing NZ avos in form and flavour.
The Harricado, described as creamy and nutty, is a new variety of the popular fruit discovered this year. The home orchardist who grew the avo, Harry Pearson, first stumbled upon the huge avocado tree at an open home in Nelson.
“I joked with the owners after I purchased the property, I said ‘the main reason I bought it was the avocado tree’,” Pearson told RNZ.
Pearson is working with the New Zealand Tree Crops Association to make the Harricado, which has a rich amber-coloured skin, more widely available. While the breed is still in its beginnings, he handed over his one ripe fruit to RNZ for sampling.
Pearson also provided two Reed avocados for the comparison. One had been ripening on the tree for 18 months (who knew they could hang happily on the tree that long), and the other, six months.
For comparison purposes, we also tested a bright green Gem avocado (delivered by subscription service The Avo Tree) and an easy-to-find Hass. Top tip for bargain hunters: An abundant supply at this time of year means Hass avocadoes are a bargain (about 99c at Pak’nSave).
The prep
The three most popular ways to enjoy avocado are as guacamole, on toast and in salads, according to Google.
The Hass, Gem and Harricado all revealed themselves as gloriously green-fleshed, with barely a blemish between them. The younger Reed did the same.
For depth of colour, the Reed is a standout. Not surprisingly, so is the Gem, which is a cross between Reed and Hass. The Hass was an appealing deep green at the edges. The Harricado was similar, but the lightest in colour overall.
While the Gem may take its colour cues from the Reed, it seems to take its skin from the Hass – both being sturdy, textured and easy to slide and scoop the fruit out. The Reed and the Harricado have smooth, thin skins that are better to peel off.
What makes the best avo on toast?
The sliced avos were spread onto a piece of toasted sourdough with a small sprinkle of dukkah and salt and pepper.
The Hass and Gem brought the flavour, while Reed and Harricado brought the form (they were all in a near perfect state of ripeness, so held up well to slicing). The Hass broke up a bit before the others. While the Reed and Harricado both have firmer, more dense flesh, for fresh fruity flavour, it’s Hass and Gem for the win.
What avo makes the greatest guacamole?
We went simple in the prep: diced tomatoes, thinly sliced red onion, coriander, lime juice and salt and pepper. Then we got smashing. All were easy under the fork with the Reed forming the creamiest texture.
The taste test revealed an unlikely hero. While it was the Gem that got the overall thumbs up from the crowd for its fresh full flavour, the Harricado was an absolute delight. The texture was light, almost fluffy – with the fresh flavours it was delicious.
What avocado is best in salad?
The avos were diced and added to a portion of salad of cucumber, tomatoes, red onion, corn and rocket, finished with vinaigrette, some fresh coriander and a sprinkle of toasted almonds.
In a salad, the subtle flavour between different breeds of avocado was hard to distinguish. Looking at form, Reed was the standout. What it might lack in flavour, compared to Hass and Gem, it makes up in colour. Plus, it holds its shape well. The Harricado is less vibrant, but still keeps good form. The Hass is most likely to mash up a bit in the salad toss. But some may like that as a bit of a creamy dressing.
So where does that leave us?
The Gem is an outstanding performer — it boasts colour, flavour and form. There’s a lot to like about Hass and Reed is reliable — the quiet good-looking type. And if Harricado becomes a commercial reality, I will be making light and fluffy guacamole all day long.
rnz.co.nz
